2024 Europe and the Spanish Camino

I instantly developed a love/hate relationship with this Italian island. Love the scenery, the food, the vibe. Hate driving around in a sardine can on wheels!  Tony is driving a FIAT- 2 door manual- it’s only saving grace is it has aircon and can fit down the narrowest of streets. 

The drives have not brought out the best in me and I may have had a few over the top moments brought on by heading the wrong way down one way streets and having to reverse back up dead end streets.

Tony has been amazing- managing me and Sicilian traffic. All that aside, we flew into Palermo for a week of heat wave weather and holiday traffic. I am actually quite good at navigating now and we arrive where we should be. 

Palermo was interesting in that it is old and graffitied but still busy. We unexpectedly arrived on the day of the 400th anniversary of the celebration of their patron saint. What a party. Fireworks at 1am and throngs of people all through the night. Truly special. 

We stayed in an air bnb - quaint captures it best. Again, the aircon saved the situation. 

I have missed the best bit. Mark,Koko,Minako and Taishin arrived safely and it was so wonderful to see them again. Just having some company was comforting. 

After 2 nights we drove to Mondello beach for a swim in the sea. What a sight. Warm water and the ubiquitous umbrellas and lounges on the beach. I bought an inflatable tube, dropped my shorts and took my walking stick and floated away. It was heavenly and I don’t think I set my rib recovery back too much. Minako and Taishin watched over me and helped me a lot. 

We then drove to Cefalù and the less said about that the better. I wept when we finally arrived at our accommodation- too much traffic and one ways!  

We headed straight for the beach to have a sunset swim - again it’s unbelievably fabulous. My inner tube was in full use again.

We came, we saw and we were conquered by Spain-what a beautiful country - warm, welcoming and definitely on the “to be continued” list.  

Barcelona was hot and humid but we managed to walk up to the funicular and rode out over the gardens to the fort at the top of the hill. The views were worth it.  We spent a long time sitting in the shade to enjoy the view of the busy port.

We went to a local restaurant for dinner and finally had a seafood paella - perfecto - a culinary delight to end our Spanish sojourn.  The next morning we walked to the Sagrada Familia - the cathedral in progress - we couldn’t get tickets to go in but the exterior was worth the trip - unusual, provocative and a work in progress,

We bid a fond farewell to Spain and flew to Sicily for our long awaited reunion with Mark, Koko, Taishin and Minako. 

There can be no doubt that being in the warm Spanish weather - a hot dry heat in this part of the world - has helped me to feel better every day.  We caught a train to Cordoba and after a short walk in the afternoon sun returned to our hotel for a siesta.  By the evening it had cooled enough to find a local spot for dinner where we enjoyed another delightful meal - a chicken and rice tagine.

The next morning was the highlight - the Mosque - Cathedral - an epic Mosque with a Cathedral built in the middle - quite remarkable.

We moved on to Sevilla which whilst larger than Cordoba was just as wonderful with so many beautiful buildings to explore.  We walked along the river for our evening stroll and found an Italian restaurant and ate risotto which was memorable.  The morning saw us take a guided tour to the 1920 trade pavilions which have to be seen to be believed - the photos do not do this area justice.

We then walked through the old city visiting two palaces in amazing condition and after a leisurely lunch we went into the Sevilla Cathedral - it is beyond imagination - truly breathtaking.  We were treated  to a tapas tour with a young Spanish tour guide and we walked a lot more to taste jamon and tortilla. 

After 2 nights we were off to Granada - another bucket list moment for me. On arrival we went to the view point opposite the palace and gazed in wonder at the pale reddish fortress across the valley.  We then wandered down the steep narrow lanes back to our hotel for a little nap before venturing out for an evening of flamenco dancing and tapas - not our favourite guided tour but interesting nevertheless.

In the morning we enjoyed a private guided tour of the Alhambra Palace - the summer palace and gardens were spectacular - the whole complex dating from 1230 is remarkable.  We had lunch in a little place which served the fine set gazpacho and a salad that we couldn’t get enough of.  We walked slowly back to our hotel trying to process the wonders we had seen. 

It was back to Madrid for a night with another city tapas tour which was a great finale to a wonderful journey around central Spain.  We were spoiled with an upgrade in our final hotel and it was difficult to farewell a new favourite city.. Adios  

With New York you say it twice but with Madrid you say it thrice - what a wonderful city.  So vibey and buzzy without being loud and overdone.  

We arrived as the weather was getting hotter and our accommodation was on the main  city street - the centre of town. We enjoyed a private walking tour which started at 7.30 pm.  Madrid is hosting the largest Pride event in Europe this weekend and downtown is ready to celebrate.  Rainbow bunting on the building, in shops and being waved by pedestrian's. We had a light dinner in a restaurant in one of the many plazas in the area.

In the morning we taxied to the  city gardens - OMG - how exquisite were they - going on forever in manicured beauty.  We then joined a guided tour of the Prado gallery - another bucket list moment for me - this time I was offered a wheelchair and I gladly took it.  It is a great way to go through a gallery - Tony is not so sure and was quite exhausted after 4 hours of pushing. Such beauty to behold with our skilled guide sharing his knowledge and insights.

Our dinner was one of salad and beer - the heat was intense but the aircon made it bearable.

In the morning we set off by train for Cordoba.  We stayed in the old town near the Mosque - Cathedral.  It got to 41 degrees by 4 pm so we waited until quite late to find a fabulous restaurant where we enjoyed gazpacho and a chicken tagine for the ages.  Our food journey has been outstanding so far.

Our morning tour was to the Mosque - Cathedral - I am still processing the enormity of the building and the Cathedral inside the Mosque - totally divine. We then walked across the old bridge and Tony climbed the tower steps for a bird's eye view of the city.  An absolute favourite stop on this trip.

Well, it is now 13 days since my ignominious  fall from a train onto the tracks of the Valenca station in Portugal on what was the day before our bucket list Camino walk. 2 nights in hospital in Vigo, Spain a few X-rays etc and we were on our way with 3 broken ribs to show for my trouble!

The only restriction was to do almost nothing except gentle walking to recover over 6 to 8 weeks.  Not daunted, we taxied our way towards Santiago De Compastella over 10 days. What a comfortable way to make a pilgrimage - our luggage was forwarded as planned so all we had to do was eat, drink and walk gently.  

Mission accomplished.  We were treated kindly everywhere we went in this pristine and peaceful part of the world.  Santiago is a very spiritual place - not just because of the churches and relics but is has a feel to it that makes it special.  We attended the pilgrim mass in the cathedral and lit candles and gave up prayers of thanks for how lucky we both were in Valenca.

The below is a selection of photos of the time we were on this journey - and those who know me well, I truly give thanks to God for His amazing grace.

What a joy to meet up with Thomson and Tiarnne at the Standard just off St Pancras station. 

We had dinner at Decima - a Spanish fusion restaurant with views over parts of London - amazing food and company.    

This was followed by breakfast at T & Ts favourite breakfast spot in London - who knew - the Duck and Waffle.     

The day just kept getting better - we arrived at my brother Mike and his wife Gill‘s home in Stoneleigh - their sons Connor, Jaden and Luke made us feel so welcome - a true home from home.

We celebrated Mike’s birthday in London at a South African restaurant in London Bridge near the iconic Shard building.  What a fabulous evening - biltong and peppermint crisp tart for dessert. I can’t tell you how lovely it was to be together with these wonderful people.

A lovely day in a beautiful old town.  Toured a printing press museum and a Jesuit Baroque church - what a beauty with Ruben’s paintings and a personal tour by a dedicated staff member.  Tony was a bit concerned about the open air confessionals - public confession is not on his agenda!

We now qualify for seniors tickets on many European transport services so for a very reduced rate we travel well.  We discovered Kumo cakes in Brussels - a hybrid of macarons and tea cakes with a wafer of chocolate on top of pastry crème - delicious with afternoon tea,  

We left via Eurostar - albeit half an hour late - for a quick and easy trip to St Pancras in London.

Kumo tarts

We have had an inauspicious start to our holiday-a few misshaps in the air - Tony having hot tea spilled on hIm. The upside being his new favourite pjs - first class designer Trakkies whilst his trousers dried.  I managed to get yoghurt all over me when I opened the tub and it literally burst open all over me - where are my pjs?

Waiting in the immigration queue was a new low  These first world countries are getting a bit other worldly in their approach to passport control. 

On the train to the city Tony was the designated bag watcher as there was no room in the carriages for luggage.  Imagine my surprise when as we get to a station I see Tony falling and hitting his head on the cabin door with a very large man standing over him and yelling incomprehensibly at him.  Fortunately he got off the train and no  more harm was done.  No help from the locals and a poor introduction to the city.  I was more shaken up than Tony and we think either drugs or mental health caused the attack.

Happily our accommodation is lovely and we went to the Old Masters gallery this afternoon and then ended our day with that Belgian tradition - Japanese food at Wagamama!

Our bags are packed, the house is clean and we have met our lovely house sitter - thanks @aussiehousesitters.  Tomorrow we leave for a 9 week holiday for the ages - new adventures and people to meet but more importantly we get to see our beloved family and friends again.  As I sit here and listen to my favourite classical piece - Handel’s Messiah I feel doubly blessed to be setting off again.

Lovely to see you @Gwenda Thomas for a farewell lunch and can’t wait to see you in Utrecht @Marjolein Bervoets in July!!

I will be trialling my new selfie stick this trip so you may have a few videos - you may not - depending on how complicated it is.  Keep in touch dear friends.